57) SANTIAGO DE CHILE, WESTERN CAPITAL (15 to 19 November 2016)

As everyone knows, Santiago is the capital of Chile. With 6.2 millions inhabitants, about 1/3 of the Chilean population, it is the 6th largest city of South America, after Sao Paulo, Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, Bogota and Lima. Chile is a geographically interesting country: 4,300km long, by 175km average (350km at its widest point). It goes from latitudes 17 to 55 South. Equivalent to Senegal – Scotland in the North. With different climates (hot and arid desert in the North, frozen glaciers in the South), a long coast line in the West, and the Andes mountains in the East.

Chile gained its independence from Spain in 1818. From 1973 to 1990, it was ruled by the military dictatorship of Pinochet, that left traces until today. Despite Chile’s troubled recent history, the country is the most stable and prosperous in South America. Interesting and impressive to see the difference of life style with neighbouring Bolivia…

I did not know what to expect from Chile. All the Chileans I had met along my travels had left the country to seek better life in Brasil, Mexico and Australia. Plus, Chile is mocked by its neighbours. Maybe because it is economically more successful, or because it took some lands from Bolivia and Peru during the War of the Pacific in 1880’s, cutting Bolivia’s access to the ocean. Or because they play a rude and dirty football (I heard this from Peruvians, Brasilians and Argentinians). Or maybe because it is shaped like a penis…chile-location-map-in-south-americaMotorbikes travellers go to one and only place in Santiago, World famous in the moto communities: the Casa Matte, a hostel of which the owner, Cristian, is a passionate. Everything smells motorbike here.It is a house more then a hostel. With Cristian’s family, we sometimes cooked together and shared wine and empanadad. Empanadas are a speciality from South America: chicken, meat, cheese or veggies wrapped in a cooked dough. Simple and cheap.Casa Matte is the perfect place to meet fellow travellers, and do some maintenance.Like this legend, Glen, Australian. With his motorbike, a Triumph Tiger 800, from North to South and West to East, he has been everywhere in the Americas really. 3 years and 115,000km, I have never met anyone who spent that much time moto riding. Legend.I stayed 6 days in Santiago. To visit of course, but also to check and maintain my lovely KLaRa. Hard roads of Bolivia and North Argentina had put her to supplice, but she did very well. I changed the back tyre, the chain and sprockets. Here she is, naked:Santiago looks like a German city. Clean, organised. People don’t cross at red light! Different from the large cities I visited before (Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo, Lima, La Paz). A bit like in Rio, there are a few hills in the middle of it, offering great views.

Santa Lucia Hill:San Cristobal hill, the highest (300m above the rest of Santiago):And of course, as I always do if it is possible, I visited the highest tower. I just love high buildings, they are to me engineering beauty. 300m high, the highest in Latin America (South and Central America), and 2nd highest in the Southern Hemisphere. Built in 2013, it is home of the largest shopping centre in Latin America, 2 hotels and offices.Stunning views at the top, we can see the snow covered caps of the high mountains of the Andes.I walked a lot in Santiago, during 2 days. Historical centre:Mercado Central, bit more South American typical, where you can find anything in term of food and local products:I had already tried Ceviche, a Peruvian speciality, made of different fishes and seafood cooked in lemon. I wasn’t disappointed with the Chilean version.But let’s talk about people. The day I arrived, I went out for diner alone, to see Santiago by night. There was a football game counting for the 2018 qualification, against Uruguay. After a difficult start, Chile won 3-1. What a fervour and enthusiasm! I could not believe my eyes. People singing and drinking in bars, and street like if they had won the World Cup. Going home, I saw a roundabout full of people dancing with Chilean flag and join the party.A bit later, the police came with water cannons, walking aggressively towards us with riot shields. This is when I saw fear in people’s eyes, running in all directions. Apparently, police doesn’t duck around here… Maybe the heritage from the military dictatorship. But that did not stop the momentum. I met young students (19-21 years old), well decided to make me love Chilean people and parties. Bars, clubs, house parties… I just loved all of it, I was incredibly welcomed, thanks a lot to them.Visits are done, moto is ready. It’s time to hit the road again. As always, I would like to stay longer, but I don’t want to spend Christmas in my tent. About 7,000km done, and much more to come!lima-santiago

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